This is a family favorite around the holidays, and another of my grandmother’s specialties. Aside from Mémère‘s house, I have only seen this candy in a few fancy candy stores.
The candy has a flavor unlike any other candy I’ve tried, almost reminiscent of molasses, though there is no molasses in it. It is crackly, light, and dissolves quickly. My grandmother claims that sponge candy is fairly easy to make, though I have to admit I find the idea of handling hot, sugary, foaming liquid a bit intimidating and have not tried this recipe yet myself. For the daring candy-maker, here is the yellowed recipe, cut from the Lewiston Sun Journal c. 1980:
